there's lovely

Yes, the stars DO twinkle. But I paid the price for experiencing that, because last night was bitterly cold. Then again, as the Southernmost tip of the country, I guess the next land mass is Antarctica. Certainly this was the closest to the South Pole that I'm ever likely to go. Woke up damp again too, as tent was under trees and the dew was slow to evaporate in the temperate forest.

Wilson's Prom WAS lovely and I could have stayed longer, but my sights are now firmly set on Sydney. Weather today has been the best so far, sunny and warm, with dry roads, and again, very little traffic on them. I decided to have a day's riding, rather than beach, to make headway in the decent conditions.

Victoria is a lot like England, in this coastal part at least. Green, grassy hills, lots of trees and ordinary looking farms. At times I could have been riding in the Berkshire Downs. Made various stops at towns along the way. Strange but familiar look and feel to them. A bit like Pangbourne with Wild West touches.

I've mentioned my motorbike map book before, listing the top 200 rider routes in Oz. Well today, by being a little round-the-houses, I managed to plan a route that took in three of them, and part of a fourth. This country really is amazing by motorbike, with scenic, traffic-free and entertainingly twisty roads. Stefan, you'd be in your element - I've been picturing your graceful line and doing my best to emulate it. The last 100+ miles were like a switchback rollercoaster through a forest of tall trees up to the tarmac edge. Yes, honestly, more than 100 unbroken miles through the hills and trees, in and out of sunshine and shade. I had to stop four times to clean my helmet visor of a greeny-yellow sticky substance, maybe pollen, and kamikaze bugs. If I hadn't, I wouldn't have been able to see at all, they were so thickly encrusted.

And then I crossed another state boundary, into New South Wales... which is nothing at all like old South Wales if what I've seen so far is typical. Am camped up at a seaside town in the Southernmost corner, called Eden. It is lush (Michelle's favourite word!) and tranquil. Tent is just 20 metres from the sea, behind a thin line of trees and scrub. I'm listening to the waves as I type. Have just had the surpringly tasty veggie option at a nearby pub, and am turning in for the night shortly. Hopefully tonight won't be quite so cold, though it IS clear and starry again. It's just under 500 kilometres to Sydney now.... maybe tmrw I'll be gazing at another of those iconic Australian landmarks?