capital

That night by the river was peaceful, if again a little chilly. And JD ticked me off (rightly!) for camping under a tree because they have been known to fall and injure or even kill people in stormy weather, and I've certainly had plenty of that while here. I woke up, body clock again, at about seven, and sat and watched the mist on the water for a while, munching on a delicious, ripe mango which I'd bought the day before. Couldn't have had a better breakfast.

Packed up the tent .. travelling light it doesn't take long ... and got back on the road southwards. This was probably the poorest road surface I've deliberately ridden across. Some really very steep sections with twists and bends, but also very rutted, gravelly in places, and, believe it or not, with a notional 100km an hour speed limit. Needless to say I was being ginger ;0) I want to come back from this experience intact, and without losing my deposit on ol' Blue.

Bike's performing really well by the way, I like it a lot now I'm used to it. Stefan rides a big BMW and I know he rates his very highly too. The road I was on took me cross country, through more forests and farmland, most of it very high up still. The wind had eased a bit since yesterday, but it was still blowy in exposed areas. Then, down from Oberon and Taralga, through the first inland city in Australia, Goulburn, and on towards Canberra - the specially created capital city. To get there meant crossing a huge open grassy plain. Fast motorway through another extraordinary landscape... and windy again. Blue, laden down with luggage, is a bit like having a sail on the side of the bike. It catches, the wind and you're constantly adjusting and shifting your weight to stay in lane and moving forward. Not relaxing as such, but diverting - certainly makes you feel alive!

Arrived in Canberra faster than I'd expected, in the early afternoon, and, mainly as I'd run out of clothes again, decided to check into another hostel. This time the big international chain, YHA. Had had enough of grunge for a day or two at least! It's a pristine place, and the room with six beds I was shown to had only one other occupant. I dumped my gear and decided to do the laundry first, so it would all get dry. While that was going, I went for a wander round.

The city is odd. Its layout is very strange, lots of concentic circles, guaranteed to confuse a poor biker or pedestrian. The name Canberra is from the local Aboriginal dialect, and means 'meeting place'. It was created because neither Sydney or Melbourne wanted the other to become Australia's federal capital. The city rivalries are really quite marked - everyone connected with one of the cities plays the game, dissing the other. And they ALL seem to diss Canberra, ha ha. Few seem to have a good word for the place. Even the Canberran citizens I've spoken to were asking me 'why did you come here of all places?' I told them it seemed rude not to, as I'd been passing, but Jackie had also made some recommendations.

In the afternoon sunshine - hottest day for a while, without the humidity of Sydney due to the altitude - I took my shirt off as I wandered along the great grassy lanes towards the Parliament building. Not sure if the car load of young women who wolf whistled and called out to me as they drove past were being ironic. I am nearly 42 ... but they probably only saw my buff bod in the rugby shorts for a second or two, and didn't realise I could have been their father. Ha ha - made me smile for a while anyway, however it was meant. Never had THAT happen to me before.

Got to Parliament too late for a wander round inside, but I did sit awhile outside on the amazing grassed roof. Everything here is so green and well tended. And quiet again, but then the house wasn't sitting, and I'm sure it's not always like that. It was a long walk back to the hostel, and I wandered for a while to get food, then took a ride out on Blue around the city in the growing dark before hooking up with a guy I'd chatted to on Grindr. Good evening with him.

It's the first time I've really ridden at night here. there's always been a genuine concern I'd hit an animal crossing the roads... and on a bike that's bad news for both of us. I'd actually seen another 'roo bounce across the road 100 metres ahead of me earlier today, and there's tons of dead ones - and wombats - along the verges ... enough to let me know it IS a real hazard here. But riding at night, on the big loopy, and now quiet roads, was great. Warm evening and a pause down by the big artificial lake - everything here is man made - then back home to a comfortable bed, and no pile of crap to clamber over to reach it.